Day 84, Monday, October 31, Skayway, Alaska, 6:00 p.m., 9700 miles into journey
What an absolutely fascinating drive from Whitehorse to Skagway. Besides concentrating my energy and attention on the Defender, which performed splendidly, the road and views were out of this world. The last time i made this drive the fog was only thing i remember. To be sure, we had our share of fog, but it only added to the drama. The 100 mile drive took us more than three hours because we took the road - the empty road, except for two trucks and one car - at a leisurely pace and stopped numerous times for walks and photos. I took mote than 100 photos today, the most in a day on this trip.
Coming into Skagway was like entering a ghost town. All the tourists, and i mean all, fled south weeks ago. The streets were literally empty, even on this Halloween. Although Skagway depends on the tourists, this town takes on a special appeal after they have all fled south on the ferries and cruise ships. The town itself is like a throwback to the Klondike days. Just about every building in the small downtown area is in Klondike style. This is why those who have visited here say it is their favorite town. Of course, most of the stores, shops, restaurants and cafes have closed for the session, but that is fine with me since I don't patronize them anyway. Nor does Donner.
After exploring the town for a bit, i drove out of town to stop by Dyea Campground, where Leben and Erde and i camped back in 2001, and then drove farther down the road to the Slide Cemetery to pay our respects, but the road was under construction so we moved on. Instead, we took an hour drive up the rough, empty, dirt road along West Creek and if ever I needed to regain confidence in the Defender , that trail did it for me. The Defender is back.
We left Whitehorse in low-20s, completely overcast weather, but the temperature in Skagway was probably in the mid 40s, blue sky, sun. That alone, the road, and the Defender re-energized me for the rest of the journey.
In two hours, we will board the 4-day ferry to the Seattle area. Among other tasks, on the ferry, as Donner sleeps away the time in the Defender on the car deck, i will begin planning my 4000-mike journey from there, armed with the knowledge that the Defender is better than its old self, except for a headlight that needs replacing, and a few other pesky malfunctions,
As i left Whitehorse today, my feelings were all positive, mainly because of the people (and my new engine). As i left, I took great comfort knowing that those five weeks there are now permanently impressed upon my mind as one of the great experiences in my life. How lucky i was.
Photo below is of Donner having dinner on empty Broadway in Skagway.
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